Basic Tomato Sauce
When I was a kid, spaghetti meant ground beef cooked with Ragu and a little bit of sugar. I'll never forget the first time my Italian neighbor and childhood best friend Cathy tried spaghetti at our house. "Sugar?!" she exclaimed incredulously, as she watched me throw in a generous handful of Roger's sugar into the saucepan. In retrospect I suspect that her willingness to eat something so grossly incorrect of Italian tomato sauce was motivated only by her unwillingness to eat Minestrone, which her mom would make occasionally in the summer afternoons. I remember having the impression that Minestrone was some unpalatable medley of vegetables cooked in a thin broth until I happened to try it and thought, "What's all the fuss about? This is great!". Ironically, somehow we almost always seemed much more interested in what was being eaten in each others' homes than in our own. "I could eat chinese sausages and rice everyday", she would proclaim, while I swore that if I could have a link of her family's homemade calabrese sausages I would die happy.
But of all the memories of food eaten at the Belcastro house at 334, there is one memory that stands above all (yes, even more so than those indescrible sausages), and that is of the distinct smell of tomato sauce that almost always filled the immaculate kitchen. When I got older I asked her mom how to make tomato sauce, and she told me the basic ingredients and said, "it's so easy!" Years later, I still can't quite capture the same aroma and taste as Mrs. Belcastro's bomb sauce, but I've grown to have a taste for my own tomato sauce- sans sugar, of course. Often I play around with the ingredients depending on my mood and cravings; extra carrots or whole roasted garlic cloves for sweetness, red chili flakes for heat, sauteed brown mushrooms for a touch of savory, a few splashes of red wine if I happen to have a bottle open.
1 can | Crushed tomatoes (I like to use Scarpone's) |
½ | Carrot, brunoise |
½ | Stalk celery, brunoise |
½ | Yellow or red onion, brunoise |
1 | Bay leaf |
2 | Garlic cloves, minced (I usually put 4 or five, but I love garlic) |
TT | Chopped flat leaf parsley |
TT | Chopped basil, fresh or dried |
TT | Oregano, dried (I find fresh to be a bit overpowering, unless you strain the sauce at the end) |
TT | Sea salt and cracked black pepper |
1. Heat olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium high heat.
2. Fry carrot, celery and onion until onions are translucent.
3. If using dried herbs or red pepper flakes, add to the pan at this point.
4. If using wine, turn the heat up a little bit and add wine. Allow the liquid to reduce by half.
5. Add crushed tomatoes and bay leaf, reduce heat to minimum and simmer for an hour.
6. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and if using fresh herbs, stir in at the last moment before serving.
Ill always remember that pink winter afternoon, the three of us on the rickety deck in the backyard having a picnic of turkey meatloaf and red rooster rice with cream of chicken soup,a humble meal, a glorious feast, a gleeful token of days gone by...